Happy Holidays!

Well, 2008 is coming to a close and we're happy to say that we've learned a lot from this turbulent year throughout our economy. We have had the privlege to see many of our clients and vendors drive through the tough times with vigor and resolve for what's ahead in 2009 and beyond. We have also had to watch a number of excellent clients, vendors, builders and designers run into a wall financially that they simply could not climb. Our thoughts go out to all of those who have witnessed the worst of this economic downturn. 

As we move into 2009 we'd like to welcome more information from YOU our valued clients from every sector of the residential and commercial construction industry. Our business has been running on solid ground for over 54 years now, largely because our clients know that if there is a concern or opinion about how we can better service their needs they have a platform to voice it through a simple phone call, email or customer review of a particular product. Along with an enormous increase to our product line in 2009, we also plan to get back to basics of communication and invite EVERY client - large or small - to let us know how we can do it better...

We truly wish for nothing but the best for you and your family throughout the Holiday season and look forward to hearing from you regarding every facet of your business that we can help streamline through our website and other various services. 

Thank you and Merry Christmas!

Ryan LeCluyse
360Flooring.com
Direct: 816-591-6122
Toll Free: 1-866-592-8169 ext. 2
Email: ryanL@360flooring.com
Skype: ryan_lecluyse

Acrylic vs. Fiberglass - Gel Coat Bath Tubs

ACRYLIC vs. FIBERGLASS

All Carver bath tubs are made with 100% Acrylic materials and reinforced with fiberglass.

Acrylic is a sheet of material that is heated and vacuum-formed over a mold, creating a continuous waterproof membrane. It is then reinforced with fiberglass for added stability and insulation value. Acrylic is non-porous by nature, warm to the touch and retains its gloss finish better than any other material. Acrylic is well recognized for its ability to withstand constant use and cleaning. It is usually recommended that you avoid harsh or abrasive cleaners since acrylic is easily scratched.

Gelcoat fiberglass is a colored polyester resin sprayed onto a mold then reinforced with fine glass particles. Being more porous and brittle than acrylic, the gelcoat/fiberglass surface has a greater tendency to dull and discolor over time. Some other drawbacks to using fiberglass are the fact that they can flex or break if they are not adequately supported and they show scratches over time that cannot be repaired.

Let’s compare fiberglass to acrylic on some very specific characteristics –

Acrylic	Fiberglass
Non-Porous - Bacteria Resistant	Porous - Subject to Bacteria & Mildew
Excellent repairability	Good repairability
Color fast- Excellent	Color fast-Fair
Useful life- 30+ yrs.	Useful life- 1-5 yrs.
Initial cost- Moderate	Initial cost- Low
Strength- Strong	Strength- Fragile
Surface- Semi Gloss	Surface- Matte
Thickness- .60-.125	Thickness- .008-.02
Cleanability- Excellent	Cleanability- Poor
Styles- Wide Variety	Styles- Moderate Variety
Colors- Full Body, Never Fade	Colors-  Dye Based, Fade Over Time
Value- High	Value- Fair

The big plus with acrylic is that it is solid surface, meaning it has a very high filler content and does not have a gel coat. If you have Corian or similar countertops in your home, then you know what solid surface material is. No mildew, mold or bacteria can penetrate because it is non-porous.  Acrylic; being a solid surface, is easier to clean, has a glossy finish and will last for many years. It will not fade over time as the color is all the way through the material, not just on the surface. Whereas, with gel coat fiberglass the gel coat rubs off and then the pores/fibers of the fiberglass are exposed.  Once the pores and fibers are exposed they can harbor bacteria, mold and mildew and grime and soap scum get imbedded into the surface which begins the breaking down of the product. Using a gel-coat is like having a paint sprayed onto the fiberglass to “seal” it.  It wears off over time which is why it fades and wears and becomes even harder to keep clean.

While fiberglass costs less, it will never last longer or as long as acrylic therefore in the long run it is probably well worth the added expense to get a walk in tub made with a surface material that is more durable and that will last for many years.

How To Seal Slate Tile

Step 1

Choose a finish for your sealant. Pick between a glossy finish or a matte seal. Pick either a penetrating sealant that will create a stronger seal or a topical one that coats only the surface. Choose a water-based sealant if you are worried about the level of toxic fumes.

Step 2

Purchase the tile sealant from a home improvement or hardware store.

Step 3

Allow the mortar to dry before grouting the slate tile. Add your chosen sealant into the grout mixture for extra water resistance.

Step 4

Allow the grouted tile 1 week to dry. Clean the tile a few times to ensure that any remnants from the grout are washed away and will not affect the texture of the tile.

Step 5

Allow the tile to dry thoroughly after it has been washed.

Step 6

Follow the grain of the tile when applying the sealant. Make sure to apply it in an even coat, with no streaking or puddles left behind. Ventilate the area as much as possible, since most sealers give off toxic fumes.

Step 7

Allow the tile sealant to dry on the slate for about 2 hours. Apply a second coat of sealant and allow it 2 hours to dry before walking on the tile or putting furniture on it.

Depend on a Trend..?

The residential construction industry is constantly changing, and contractors who want to last need to do their part to stay ahead of and help define the markets trends.  The economic concerns we all face these days has spot lighted the decline in our housing market on the whole.  Our company personally has seen and heard some of the depressing doses of reality the economy has fed us, from builders that can't afford the interest on their spec homes due to market stagnation to manufactures and suppliers that are having to close doors and cut jobs just to stay afloat.  

There are however some very obvious trends in the housing market that builders, if they are not already, should be focused on in order to drive through the markets downturn and come out stronger than ever on the other side.

Going Green

The impact we all have on the environment is a shared responsibility that simply can't go without regard any longer.  We have found a way to dig ourselves into selfless profits with no respect for the impact it has on the environment and generations to come.  Over 70% of all new construction projects (residential & commercial) in the United States will implement higher standards for energy efficient construction methods and designs by the end of 2009.  More than a half billion square feet of U.S. commercial space has been certified as “green” by the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) rating system, according to the U.S. Green Building Council.  

Regardless of the scope of your upcoming projects, expect environmentally sound building methods, design & materials to become the benchmark.

Boomer Time

The first portion of the Baby Boomer generation is quickly approaching 65 years of age and the builders and contractors that jump on board (if they haven't already) could potentially redefine retirement as we know it by recognizing the scope of this generations wealth, knowledge and desire to retire.  Within this generation resides over 76 million persons, of which over 73% will consider themselves 'retired' within the next 10 years.

Developers and contractors that are catering to older adults are offering a comfortable and active lifestyle that revolves around leisure events, hobbies, exercise and fine dining.  The demand from the Boomers for high end appliances, finishes like granite and hardwood floors, energy efficient components and building materials and larger open floor plan designs have helped guide these developments to offer larger homes with provided maintenance and any number of walkable amenities.  

How popular are these developments? Of boomers ages 51 to 60 recently surveyed by the National Association of Realtors, 47 percent said they “definitely or likely would consider moving to an active-adult community.”  My own mother in-law, 63, just moved into her second retirement community in 5 years last winter.

If your company has materials, services or the opportunity to approach and attract developments that cater toward the Baby Boomer generation NOW is the time to get to the drawing board and find out how you can help 76 million people live a little better with your version of things.

Stay Ahead of the Curve

The moral of the story is that even though we are down throughout the residential housing market, there are still areas of opportunity that if approached in the right way could lead to one of the strongest recoveries any industry has ever seen.  Think to yourself, what will happen to my business model when Green methods & materials become the benchmark for every project on the next 5-7 years..?  How can I attract developers and future residents of the Baby Boomer retirement communities to work with my company..?  

We are at a fundamental change in cycles within the housing industry.  The days of fly-by-night builders and developers who have no foundation or expertise are coming to an end.  The days of growth for those that recognize the difficulties ahead and see the avenues of promise before them are upon us.  I'm happy to say that regarding both trends I discussed above NO ONE is too far behind...  

WHEN TO BEGIN FINISHING HARDWOOD FLOORING

A summary of information regarding the process of finishing hardwood floors.  When should you do it?  What tips and tricks are there?  These questions and much more are answered here!

WHEN TO BEGIN THE FINISHING PROCESS

Since a near-occupied environment was established prior to installation, it is recommended that unfinished flooring be allowed to acclimate 1 to 3 weeks before proceeding with sanding and finishing operations. This acclimation allows the flooring to react and move as the environment dictates so that slight cracks, slightly raised edges, etc., can be sanded, filled, and finished to give the best appearance. Longer periods of exposure to job site abuse and moisture can result in future problems.

After finishing is completed, temperature and humidity should continue to be maintained at near occupancy levels.

NEW FLOORS 
Applying the finish to the hardwood floor should be one of the last jobs of any construction project. This prevents the traffic of workmen from marring the finish. Wall coverings should be in place and painting completed except for a final coat on the base molding.

OLD FLOORS
Remove all furniture, rugs, and draperies from the room. If you're planning on wall repair, painting or applying wall covering, do that work before you refinish the floor so paint or paste will not drip on the new floor.

SANDING EQUIPMENT NEEDED
A drum or belt wood floor sanding machine, an edger or spinner, appropriate sanding paper or belts and edger discs, in COARSE, MEDIUM and FINE grits.

NOTE: The drum or belt sanding machine that has a separate lever for raising and lowering the sanding drum is preferred. The lever provides additional control during the sanding process. Always wear ear protection.

A floor polisher 15" to 17" diameter, 200 rpm or less, with a sanding disc attachment and sanding discs or sanding screens in fine grit, also white or brown buffing pads.

Hand tools and miscellaneous equipment: broom, vacuum, hammer, 6d to 8d case nails, nail set, nail puller, long handled paint scraper, hand sanding block and sandpaper, 2"- 3" putty knife and prepared wood filler, oscillating electric sander - if available. For repairing boards: circular saw, 1/2"-1" chisel, pry bar, hand saw, block plane, wood glue, drill, utility knife, replacement flooring.

HOW TO INSTALL PLANK HARDWOOD FLOORING

Detailed information concerning the installation of plank hardwood flooring. This guide will tell you everything you need to know about the proper techniques involved in installing hardwood floors professionally. 

NOTE: With wide plank over 4" extra care is necessary for good performance since the units move more with changing conditions. Proper acclimation before and after installation is critical. After acclimation and before installation, sealing the back surface may help prevent some cupping normally associated with wider widths.

This flooring is normally made in 3" to 8" widths and may have countersunk holes for securing planks with wood screws. These holes are then filled with wood plugs. 

Random width Plank is installed in the same manner as strip flooring, alternating courses by widths. Start with widest boards, then the next width, etc., and repeat the pattern. Manufacturers' instructions for fastening the flooring vary and should be followed. 

The general practice is to blind nail through the tongue as with conventional strip flooring. Then countersink one or more flat head screws, No. 7 - No. 9 phillips head or dry wall screws at each end of each plank and at intervals along the plank to hold it securely. Cover the screws with wood plugs glued into the holes. Take care not to use too many screws which, with the plugs in place, will tend to give the flooring a "polka-dot" appearance. 

Be sure the screws are the right length. Use 1" if the flooring is laid over 3/4" plywood on a slab. Use 1" to 1 1/4" in wood joist construction or over screeds. Some manufacturers recommend face nailing in addition to other fastenings. 

Another practice sometimes recommended is to leave a slight expansion crack, about the thickness of a putty knife, between planks. Consult manufacturer's installation instructions for details. 


LAYING A NEW STRIP FLOOR OVER AN OLD FLOOR
The existing wood floor can serve as a subfloor. Drive down any raised nails, re-nail loose boards and replace any warped boards that can't be made level. Sweep and clean the floor well, but don't use water. 

Remove thresholds to allow the new flooring to run flush through doorways, remove doors and baseboards. Lay asphalt felt or building paper over the old floor. 

Do not install the new floor to the old floor in the same direction. Install at a right angle or on a diagonal. If the preferred direction is in the same direction as the old floor, overlay the old floor with 3/8" to 1/2" plywood. 

PARQUET, BLOCK, HERRINGBONE AND SIMILAR FLOORING
The styles and types of block and parquet flooring as well as the recommended procedures for application vary somewhat among the different manufacturers. Detailed installation instructions are usually provided with the flooring or are available from the manufacturer or distributor. 

This section applies only to 3/4" tongue-and-groove parquet flooring where tongues and grooves are engaged. 

DOES NOT APPLY TO SLAT-TYPE OR FINGERBLOCK PARQUET.
Lay both blocks and the individual pieces of parquetry in mastic over a double layered wood subfloor or a concrete slab with a moisture retarder. 

Use a cold, cut-back asphalt mastic spread at the rate of 35-40 sq. ft. per gallon. Use the notched edge of the trowel. Allow to "flash off" overnight or as directed by the manufacturer. The surface will be solid enough after 12 hours to allow you to snap working lines on it. Use blocks of the flooring as stepping stones to snap lines and begin the installation. 

There are two ways to lay out parquet. The most common is with edges of parquet units (and thus the lines they form) square with the walls of the room. The other way is a diagonal pattern, with lines at a 45° angle to walls.

 

Square pattern. Never use the walls as a starting line because walls are almost never truly straight. Instead, use a chalk line to snap a starting line about 3 ft. or so from the handiest entry door to the room, roughly parallel to the nearest wall. Place this line exactly equal to four or five of the parquet units from the center of the entry doorway. 

Next find the center point of this base line, and snap another line at an exact 90° angle to it from wall to wall. This will become your test line to help keep your pattern straight as the installation proceeds. A quick test for squareness is to measure four feet along one line from where they intersect, and three feet along the other. The distance between these two points will be five feet if the lines are true (Fig. 8). 

Diagonal pattern. Measure equal distances from one corner of a room, along both walls, and snap a chalk line between these two points to form the base line. (This pattern need not be at a precise 45° angle to walls in order to appear perfect.) A test line should again intersect the center of the base line at an exact 90° angle (Fig. 10). 

Special patterns. Most existing parquet patterns can be laid out with these two working lines. Herringbone will require two test lines, however; one will be at the 90° line already described; the other crosses the same intersection of lines, but at a 45° angle to both.

If such elaborate preliminary layout preparation seems a bit overdone, keep in mind that it is wood we are installing. Each piece must be carefully aligned with all of its neighbors. Small variations in size, natural to wood, must be accommodated during installation to keep the overall pattern squared up. You cannot correct a "creeping" pattern after it develops; the more carefully laid out floor causes less problems during field work. 

Wood parquet must always be installed in a pyramid, or stair-step sequence rather than in rows. This again prevents the small inaccuracies of size in all wood from magnifying, or "creeping" to gain an appearance of misalignment. Place the first parquet unit carefully at the intersection of the base and test lines. Lay the next units ahead and to the right of the first one, along the lines. Then continue the stair step sequence, watching carefully the corner alignment of new units with those already in place. Install in a quadrant of the room, leaving trimming at the walls until later. Then return to the base and test lines and lay another quadrant, repeating the stairstep sequence. 

Install the last quadrant from the base line to the door. A reducer strip may be required at the doorway.

Most wood floor mastics will allow the tiles to slip or skid when sideways pressure is applied for some period after the open time* has elapsed. You avoid this sideways pressure by working from "knee boards" or plywood panels laid on top of the installed area of flooring. For the same reason no heavy furniture or activity should be allowed on the finished parquet floor for about 24 hours. Some mastics also require rolling the flooring after installation. 

Cut blocks or parquetry pieces to fit at walls, allowing 3/4" expansion space on all sides. Use cork blocking in 3" lengths between flooring edge and wall to permit the flooring to expand and contract. 

"With blocks, a diagonal pattern is recommended in corridors and in rooms where the length is more than 1 1/2 times the width. This diagonal placement minimizes expansion under high humidity conditions.

HARDWOOD FLOORING GENERAL MAINTENANCE GUIDE

This guide will give you general information on the care of your hardwood floors.  With just few precautions and some basic preventative maintenance you can avoid any costs associated with the repair of your wood floors.

Wood floors, properly finished, are the easiest of all floor surfaces to keep clean and new looking, unlike carpeted or resilient floors that show wear regardless of care. Wood floors can be kept looking like new, year after year, with minimum care. Since the overwhelming majority of wood floors are composed of solid hardwood, this care guide applies specifically to this type of flooring.

What is minimum care? A good rule of thumb is to vacuum and/or dust mop weekly. A damp mop can be used for spills, and when necessary general cleanup on floors which have non-waxed polyurethane or a similar surface finish. When traffic areas of surface finishes begin to show significant wear, screening, scuff sanding the finish surface and re-coating an entire floor is the least involved choice for maintenance. If a floor is waxed, occasional buffing helps renew the shine and remove scuff marks that may appear in the wax coating. If the shine cannot be renewed in heavily used lanes, occasionally re-waxing these areas may be necessary. Intervals for completely re-waxing a floor may extend to a year or longer when attention has been paid to proper care.

Wood and water don't mix. No matter what finish your wood floor has, NOFMA recommends, never pouring water on the floor. While a damp mop may be used on polyurethane and other surface finishes in good condition, excessive amounts of water seep between the boards and into small scratches causing deterioration of finishes. A damp mop should only be damp to the touch. It should be thoroughly wrung and not dripping. Wax-coated finishes should NEVER be cleaned or maintained with water, not even a damp mop. Water can cause a wax finish to be dull or leave water spots.

Read the label. The recommendations made here are not intended to endorse specific products or brands but to serve as general guidelines in the selection and use of floor maintenance materials. Always follow label directions for finishes maintenance products, and corresponding products except for directions which call for using water on wood. And always use only products specifically designed for wood floors and the finish applied to your wood floor.

Preventative Maintenance

Preventative maintenance is a term more common to industrial floor care than to residential or office floor care, but its importance cannot be over-emphasized. Good preventative maintenance lengthens the intervals between the major renovation operations such as re-coating, re-waxing and refinishing. Here are some basic rules that apply to all types of floor finishes.

Keep grit off the floor. Use dirt-trapping, walk-off mats at all exterior doors to help prevent dirt, grit and sand from getting inside the building. Throw- rugs or small sections of carpet just inside the entrances are also recommended. Dirt and grit are any flooring's worst enemy, and that includes carpets and vinyls as well as hardwoods. Keep door mats clean.

In kitchens, use area rugs at high spill locations and at work stations-stove, sink, refrigerator. Cotton is generally the best fabric since it is easily washed. Mats with a smooth backing, i.e. rubber or vinyl, may trap water beneath.

Finishes and certain chemicals in wood oxidize and are affected by ultra violet light sources. This may cause the wood and finish to change color and develop a patina or aged appearance. To avoid uneven appearance, move area rugs occasionally and drape or shade large windows.

Put fabric glides on the legs of your furniture; they allow furniture to be moved easily without scuffing the floor. Clean the glides regularly. Grit can become embedded in glides; clean the glides over to prevent scratching. Some furniture may require barrel type roller casters as ball type casters may cause damage. Grey, non-marking rubber casters are the best. Avoid casters made of hard materials like metals or hard plastics.

Vacuum regularly, as often as you vacuum carpets: a brush attachment works beautifully. Sweep or use a dust mop daily or as needed, but do not use a household dust treatment as this may cause your floor to become slick, dull the finish, or interfere with re-coating.

Wipe up food and other spills promptly with a dry cloth or paper towel. Use a slightly moistened cloth for sticky spills if necessary. Then wipe the floor dry with another cloth or paper towel.

Keep heels on shoes in good repair, especially high heels. Heels that have their protective cap missing or worn away exposing the steel support rod will dent any floor surface, even concrete.

By observing these simple suggestions you'll go a long way toward keeping your hardwood floors beautiful and making their care easier.

LAYING AND FASTENING HARDWOOD FLOORING INFORMATION

The following instructions apply to strip flooring laid on plywood-on-slab, on screeds, and plywood or board subfloors.

(NOTE: Flooring "SHORTS" - 1 1/4' or 2' bundles of flooring strips are "Strip Flooring" and should be installed as such.)

It is NOT recommended to glue Shorts directly to a slab.

With plywood or board subfloors, start by re-nailing any loose areas and sweeping the subfloor clean. Mark location of joists on perimeter walls so that starting runs and finishing runs, which require face nailing, can be nailed into joists. Then cover subfloor with a good grade of 15 lb. asphalt felt/building paper, lapped 2"-4" along the edge seams. This helps keep out dust, retards moisture movement from below, and helps prevent squeaks in dry seasons.

Direction of finish flooring. Direction of finish flooring should be at right angles to the joists as shown in Fig. 4. This is generally the longest dimension of the room or building and gives best appearance.

Begin flooring installation along the longest continuous wall parallel to the flooring direction of most rooms. (i.e. Down a long hallway wall.) Work from there into the room. Use a slip-tongue to reverse direction and complete the rooms. Glue and blind nail the slip tongue. At any change of direction, always provide tongue and groove engagement either with a slip tongue, or factory edge or end.

Starting to lay the floor. Location and straight alignment of the first course is important. Place a mark 3/4" plus the width of flooring (3" for 2 1/4" flooring) on the end wall near a corner of starting wall. (Figure 5.) Place similar mark at opposite corner and insert nails into each mark. Pull string line between nails. Nail the first strip with its leading edge on this line.

The gap between that strip and the wall is needed for expansion space and will be hidden by the shoe mold (Fig. 1).

If you're working with screeds on slab make the same measurements and stretch a line between nails. Remove line after you get the starter board in place.

Lay the first strip along the starting string line, tongue out, and drive 6d or 8d flooring nails or casing nails (galvanized or screw shank hold best) 1" from the grooved edge. Nails should be driven into the top surface of strips and counter sunk (face nailing). Position nails over supporting joists, and near ends of strips or into each screed crossed. Keep the starter strip aligned with the string line. (Pre-drilling nail holes will prevent splits.) Also, blind nail starting strip through the tongue according to nailing schedule.

Rack the floor. Lay out seven or eight rows of flooring end to end in a staggered pattern with end joints at least 6" apart. Find or cut pieces to fit within 1/2" of the end wall. Watch your pattern for even distribution of long and short pieces and to avoid clusters of short boards (Fig. 6).

Nailing the floor. With plywood on slab construction the face nails should be cut to slightly less than 1 1/2". After the starter run fit each run of successive strips snug, groove-to-tongue. Blind nail through the tongue along the length of the strip according to the schedule shown in the nailing schedule table. Countersink all nails. After the second or third run is in place you can change from a hammer to a floor nailing machine which drives nails mechanically or pneumatically, and does not require additional countersinking. Various floor nailing machines use either a barbed cleat or staples, fed into the machine in clips. The nailing machine drives fasteners through the tongue of the flooring at the proper angle.

When using the floor nailing machine to fasten 3/4" thick strip or plank flooring to plywood laid on a slab, be sure to use a 1 1/2" cleat, not the usual 2" cleat which may come out the back of the plywood and prevent nails from countersinking properly and tearing the vapor retarder. In all other applications the 2" cleat is preferred.

Continue installing across the room, ending up on the far wall with the same 3/4" expansion space as on the beginning wall. It may be necessary to rip a strip to fit. Avoid nailing into a subfloor joint. Position flooring strips so that they do not meet over subfloor joints. Blind nail by hand where the nailing machine can not be used. Face nail the last runs when unable to blind nail by hand. With 2 1/4" strip face-nailing is required the last 2 or 3 runs and in a ripped piece of a strip if one has been used. Use an offset pry bar or lever device to tighten these last face nailed runs all at once before face-nailing.

Nailing to screeds. When nailing direct to screeds (no solid subfloor), nail at all screed intersections and to both screeds where a strip passes over a lapped screed joint. Since flooring ends are tongue and grooved, all end joints do not need to meet over screeds but end joints of adjacent rows should not break over the same void between screeds.

Some boards may not be straight. A large screwdriver, sharpened pry bar, or wedges can force such boards into position or pull two or three runs together.

Shoe molding. Nail this to the baseboard, not the flooring, after the entire floor is in place.