Thursday, May 12, 2011
Wednesday, May 11, 2011
Caring for your Hardwood Floors
We know your hardwood floors are an investment. Our commitment to making your hardwood floors last doesn't stop when your materials are delivered. By following these few simple suggestions you can enjoy the beauty and warmth of your wood flooring for years to come.
WHAT TO DO....
CLEAN regularly by vacuuming, sweeping, or dust mopping to maintain the floor finish. General cleaning once every week is recommended. Always use cleaners specifically made for urethane treated floors. (We recommend Bona hardwood floor cleaning products)
REMOVE spills promptly with a soft damp or dry cloth. Sweep or vacuum for dry spills.
RUGS & MATS extend the life of your new wood floor. Use at entryways, the end of steps, bathroom exits or other high traffic or moisture areas. All rugs should allow floor to breathe. Avoid rubber-backed or non-ventilated rugs. Shake out, wash or vacuum mats and area rugs frequently. Wait 2-3 weeks after floor has been finished before using area rugs or mats. This will allow the floor to get the proper air to cure. Air flow helps the curing process.
FURNITURE should not be put back in place until 36 - 48 hours after floor is finished. Attach felt pad floor protectors to the bottom of furniture. Floor protectors must be kept clean of grit and periodically replaced. Carry furniture to its place and lightly set down. Do not slide or scoot furniture across flooring.
MAINTAIN the relative humidity in your home between 35% and 55% using a humidifier during the winter months. Excessive swings in humidity levels will cause wood floors to swell, shrink, cup, crack and show excessive expansion cracks between boards. Since the wood is susceptible to the humidity in the air, natural wood fibers will pull in moisture, causing the wood to expand in the spring and summer months. During the winter months when the house is dry, there will be a shrinking effect in the width of the boards. A humidifier will help stabilize this condition. Wood floors need to be able to expand and contract with temperature and humidity. Expansion cracks from summer to winter are a natural trait of wood floors.
WHAT NOT TO DO...
DO NOT let sand, dirt, or grit build up on your floor. They can act like a sand paper, abrading and dulling your floor finish.
DO NOT walk on your wood floors with high heels. They can severely damage your finish.
DO NOT let your pets claws go untrimmed. Proper claw trimming helps avoid scratches and gouges.
DO NOT use wax, oil soap or other harsh household cleaners on finished wood floors. They can dull the floor finish and make refinishing difficult.
DO NOT mop floors too much water can cause the floor to swell or warp.
WHAT TO DO....
CLEAN regularly by vacuuming, sweeping, or dust mopping to maintain the floor finish. General cleaning once every week is recommended. Always use cleaners specifically made for urethane treated floors. (We recommend Bona hardwood floor cleaning products)
REMOVE spills promptly with a soft damp or dry cloth. Sweep or vacuum for dry spills.
RUGS & MATS extend the life of your new wood floor. Use at entryways, the end of steps, bathroom exits or other high traffic or moisture areas. All rugs should allow floor to breathe. Avoid rubber-backed or non-ventilated rugs. Shake out, wash or vacuum mats and area rugs frequently. Wait 2-3 weeks after floor has been finished before using area rugs or mats. This will allow the floor to get the proper air to cure. Air flow helps the curing process.
FURNITURE should not be put back in place until 36 - 48 hours after floor is finished. Attach felt pad floor protectors to the bottom of furniture. Floor protectors must be kept clean of grit and periodically replaced. Carry furniture to its place and lightly set down. Do not slide or scoot furniture across flooring.
MAINTAIN the relative humidity in your home between 35% and 55% using a humidifier during the winter months. Excessive swings in humidity levels will cause wood floors to swell, shrink, cup, crack and show excessive expansion cracks between boards. Since the wood is susceptible to the humidity in the air, natural wood fibers will pull in moisture, causing the wood to expand in the spring and summer months. During the winter months when the house is dry, there will be a shrinking effect in the width of the boards. A humidifier will help stabilize this condition. Wood floors need to be able to expand and contract with temperature and humidity. Expansion cracks from summer to winter are a natural trait of wood floors.
WHAT NOT TO DO...
DO NOT let sand, dirt, or grit build up on your floor. They can act like a sand paper, abrading and dulling your floor finish.
DO NOT walk on your wood floors with high heels. They can severely damage your finish.
DO NOT let your pets claws go untrimmed. Proper claw trimming helps avoid scratches and gouges.
DO NOT use wax, oil soap or other harsh household cleaners on finished wood floors. They can dull the floor finish and make refinishing difficult.
DO NOT mop floors too much water can cause the floor to swell or warp.
Thursday, March 31, 2011
Backsplashes Aren't Just for Kitchens!
I've talked a lot about backsplashes in the kitchen, but they are also a practical fixture in the bathroom. Like kitchen backsplashes, bathroom backsplashes are both functional and decorative. Bathroom backsplashes were originally installed to protect surfaces in the sink area from water, but they are also a very aesthetic feature.
Backsplashes should not be a separate element, but should enhance the look you already have. Mix up size, material, shape, color and finish for a look that is custom and unique.
Improvements in sealants have made it possible to use just about any material in the bathroom.
There are a large variety of options when it comes to choosing a backsplash, so take the time to explore and find the style that suits your area the best.
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
1978 Airstream Before & After Remodel
I just had to share this project... Check out the effort that Hoffman Architecture put into this 1978 Airstream.
By using contemporary finishes like bamboo, glass mosaic tiles, vessel sinks and more this old beauty was transformed into one of the finest versions Airstream owners have ever created. I can't say enough about how well thought out the storage, finishes and overall style of this project compliment the nostalgic heritage of the Airstream we know and love. Who's ready to go camping?!?
Tuesday, March 22, 2011
Pebble Tile Made Easy
If you're looking for a way to update the look of your bathroom, installing pebble tile to your shower floor is a simple way to accomplish that. Pebble tiles come in a variety of colors, so you're likely to find something that matches the decor already in your bathroom.
As an added bonus, the stones give you the feeling of a foot massage everytime you step in there.
You, too, can have a pebble tile shower floor in just a few simple steps!
How to Install:
As an added bonus, the stones give you the feeling of a foot massage everytime you step in there.
You, too, can have a pebble tile shower floor in just a few simple steps!
How to Install:
- Apply stone cement to the surface
- Lay the sheets next to each other and press firmly into the cement
- After that has dried, apply sealer (so stones don't unncessarily absorb the grout), then grout over the top of the stones including open spaces and edge of rows
- Wait 30 minutes and rub off excess grout with a stiff-bristled brush. Then sponge off the grout from the top of the stones
- After the grout has dried, seal with the sealer of your choice
And you're done! Let it all dry for at least 24 hours, then enjoy your foot massage with every shower!
Pebble tile sheets are not only easy to install--there are many other advantages to this route. The sheets are interlocking to create a smooth and seamless appearance. The mesh backing makes installing a breeze because the pebbles are already in place and won't be rolling around everywhere.
Some people are hesitant to install a pebble tile floor because they are afraid of slipping or it feeling too uneven. In reality, the texture actually gives you more traction and will reduce the chance of slippage and the stones are hand selected to provide uniform height and create a smooth surface to walk on.
Finally, here are some helpful tips to make your project a bit easier!
- Remember, the sheets can be cut to fit the area you need
- Follow manufacturer's directions and warnings when applying sealants
- By varying the amount of grout you use, you are able to control how much of a massage you are getting (less grout = more massage)
- Once sealed, they are easily cleaned with any mild deteregent.
(Title credit: Ryan LeCluyse)
Friday, January 28, 2011
Backsplashes!
I'm always amazed at how one small change can really make a difference in the look of a room. A backsplash is one of those changes. The kitchen is one of the most obvious and popular rooms for a backsplash. The kitchen backsplash is placed on the wall between the wall cabinets and countertop. A backsplash is a way to spice up your kitchen without doing any major remodeling.
Adding a backsplash is a simple way to really change the look of a room. Even the most basic style can change the look of the room dramatically. You have the choice of many different types of tile, depending on the look you want. Natural stone, ceramic, stainless steel and glass are some of your more basic options. From there, you have a variety of colors, sizes and patterns to choose from. This is a really easy way to give your room a custom and unique look.
Stainless steel backsplashes are becoming more and more popular in kitchens today. The stainless steel gives the kitchen a clean, modern look and is very low maintenance. Glass is also very popular because it's easy to clean and mostly scratch resistant. Glass tiles are also available in a variety of different colors and sizes.
A backsplash is more than just decorative--it also acts as a protective shield for your wall, and the kitchen is probably the place you need that the most! Cooking can get messy- splattered water, sauces, oil and other liquids are common in day to day kitchen activities. A bare wall could easily get stained or, worse, damaged by abrasive cleaners.
Check out the difference a simple porcelain subway tile backsplash made in this kitchen:
Thursday, January 27, 2011
SunTouch Radiant Featured on Oprah.com!
If you ever needed convincing that SunTouch Radiant Floor Heat is the best option for your interior or exterior floor heating needs - look no further... Oprah.com features SunTouch for the bathroom remodel that Simran Sethi's has recently completed.
Here's a little blurp from the article on Oprah.com:
"According to the Department of Energy, radiant floor heating is "more efficient than baseboard heating and usually more efficient than forced-air heating because no energy is lost through ducts." Radiant heat usually involves the use of electric mats or a series of pipes that circulate heated water. My house wouldn't easily allow for a liquid system, but it's great for new construction. Ian's incredible builder, Dustin, installed a Suntouch mat just under my aluminum tile flooring."
Not only did this customer choose radiant as an efficient way to heat his bathroom, he chose SunTouch as they are the #1 rated radiant heating manufacturer and made in the USA. Get yours today!
Here's a little blurp from the article on Oprah.com:
"According to the Department of Energy, radiant floor heating is "more efficient than baseboard heating and usually more efficient than forced-air heating because no energy is lost through ducts." Radiant heat usually involves the use of electric mats or a series of pipes that circulate heated water. My house wouldn't easily allow for a liquid system, but it's great for new construction. Ian's incredible builder, Dustin, installed a Suntouch mat just under my aluminum tile flooring."
Not only did this customer choose radiant as an efficient way to heat his bathroom, he chose SunTouch as they are the #1 rated radiant heating manufacturer and made in the USA. Get yours today!
Monday, January 17, 2011
How to polish granite tile edges
Everyday I get the question - How do I bullnose the edge of granite tile? Because of our awesome selection of granite tiles and the popularity granite has for countertop applications we have taught hundreds of you how to do this over the years. Not everyone can afford solid slabs of granite, so granite tiles are the next best thing if you want great color variation, durability and style in your kitchen or bathroom countertop. I figured it was time to go ahead and publish a helpful how-to guide that I've repeated hundreds of times over the years...
Please note that this also can be accomplished if you purchase a stone polisher and a number of pads - from coarse (50 to 3000+) to fine as detailed below with the sandpaper. I chose to write about the sandpaper method as a cheaper option for most home owners and more readily available materials in your area.
The process:
1. Use a handheld belt sander with a coarse sand paper (40 grit or so) and wet the sandpaper to grind down the tile edge to a bull nose contour. This will take a good number of passes, so be patient. Some of you might prefer to grind the tile before you install them on the counter to prevent accidental damage to the thinset through excessive vibration. The rest of you will install the tile and then bull nose it to ensure that each adjacent tile has a flush bull nose with the other and looks uniform. Belt sanders can be rented for $18-$25 per day in most metropolitan areas. Just click here to view a Google search for "belt sander rentals".
2. Progressively move up to finer grit sandpaper - always keeping it wet - until you reach a 400-600 grit level and are happy with the smoothness of each bull nosed edge. I would suggest that you go from 40 to 80 to 150 to 240 to 400 and if necessary finish up with the 600 grit sandpaper. This step can also be done with a disc grinder, bu the it is even more time consuming that with the recommended belt sander.
3. Use a coarse cotton buffer and Tripoli compound readily available at most hardware stores. The cotton buffer can be attached to most common drills for easy use. Work from coarse to fine compounds such as brown to white to red as with the sanding portion previously mentioned. Jewelers may be a good source for the white and red compounds if you're having a tough time finding them elsewhere. Again patience is the virtue, but this step is very rewarding as you'll begin to see a finished product that looks amazing when compared to what it was before you started the project.
4. Finally you're able to seal the granite with a natural stone sealant. After you have double checked your polished edges for rough spots or other imperfections use the sealer according to the manufacturer's instructions and enjoy your new countertops.
While this is a "difficult" DIY project the difficulty really lies in the tedious process and repetition required to get a good end result. Take your time and follow the steps above and you'll get the look you want and enjoy the satisfaction of the sweat equity you'll get from all of your hard work. Go for it!
Please note: this process can also be applied to other natural stones such as marble limestone and onyx, but may not require as coarse of sandpaper due to less dense material composition.
Please note that this also can be accomplished if you purchase a stone polisher and a number of pads - from coarse (50 to 3000+) to fine as detailed below with the sandpaper. I chose to write about the sandpaper method as a cheaper option for most home owners and more readily available materials in your area.
The process:
1. Use a handheld belt sander with a coarse sand paper (40 grit or so) and wet the sandpaper to grind down the tile edge to a bull nose contour. This will take a good number of passes, so be patient. Some of you might prefer to grind the tile before you install them on the counter to prevent accidental damage to the thinset through excessive vibration. The rest of you will install the tile and then bull nose it to ensure that each adjacent tile has a flush bull nose with the other and looks uniform. Belt sanders can be rented for $18-$25 per day in most metropolitan areas. Just click here to view a Google search for "belt sander rentals".
2. Progressively move up to finer grit sandpaper - always keeping it wet - until you reach a 400-600 grit level and are happy with the smoothness of each bull nosed edge. I would suggest that you go from 40 to 80 to 150 to 240 to 400 and if necessary finish up with the 600 grit sandpaper. This step can also be done with a disc grinder, bu the it is even more time consuming that with the recommended belt sander.
3. Use a coarse cotton buffer and Tripoli compound readily available at most hardware stores. The cotton buffer can be attached to most common drills for easy use. Work from coarse to fine compounds such as brown to white to red as with the sanding portion previously mentioned. Jewelers may be a good source for the white and red compounds if you're having a tough time finding them elsewhere. Again patience is the virtue, but this step is very rewarding as you'll begin to see a finished product that looks amazing when compared to what it was before you started the project.
4. Finally you're able to seal the granite with a natural stone sealant. After you have double checked your polished edges for rough spots or other imperfections use the sealer according to the manufacturer's instructions and enjoy your new countertops.
While this is a "difficult" DIY project the difficulty really lies in the tedious process and repetition required to get a good end result. Take your time and follow the steps above and you'll get the look you want and enjoy the satisfaction of the sweat equity you'll get from all of your hard work. Go for it!
Please note: this process can also be applied to other natural stones such as marble limestone and onyx, but may not require as coarse of sandpaper due to less dense material composition.
Get The Look: 3 Dreamy Bathrooms
I've been in a bathroom state of mind ever since my husband and I laid radiant floor heating in our soon-to-be master bath last week. The truth is, I'm a bit of a bathroom snob and am a firm believer that you can embrace high style with a low price tag --- even in the more "functional" spaces of a home.
Care for a few examples? Take a cue from these three dreamy bathrooms and see how a room can shine with little more than an affordable tile transformation!:
For a French-inspired, glamorous statement bathroom, let the bathtub be a focal point with light, natural finishes. Tile a half-wall with textured limestone tile and enjoy a concrete-inspired marble floor underfoot. You'll be bubble-soaked and singing opera in no time!
For a masculine his-and-hers hotelier bathroom suite, opt for travertine (with similarly-colored grout) on the floors and luxurious polished marble subway tiles. Accent the look with plenty of symmetry for a serene experience worthy of a king!
To get this equal parts masculine and feminine (and so cozy!) bathroom, try pairing oak planks with subway tile and charcoal grout. Keep the accessories at a minimum and let the natural elements sing uninterrupted.
Happy decorating!
Image Credits: The Inside Stoop
Care for a few examples? Take a cue from these three dreamy bathrooms and see how a room can shine with little more than an affordable tile transformation!:
For a French-inspired, glamorous statement bathroom, let the bathtub be a focal point with light, natural finishes. Tile a half-wall with textured limestone tile and enjoy a concrete-inspired marble floor underfoot. You'll be bubble-soaked and singing opera in no time!
For a masculine his-and-hers hotelier bathroom suite, opt for travertine (with similarly-colored grout) on the floors and luxurious polished marble subway tiles. Accent the look with plenty of symmetry for a serene experience worthy of a king!
To get this equal parts masculine and feminine (and so cozy!) bathroom, try pairing oak planks with subway tile and charcoal grout. Keep the accessories at a minimum and let the natural elements sing uninterrupted.
Happy decorating!
Image Credits: The Inside Stoop
Friday, January 14, 2011
Design of the Month - Latest Project!
Take a look at the latest addition to our Design of the Month page! This is such a simple design concept that applies to so many products and the outcome is gorgeous. Here you see 2x4 slate tile used on the left and right sides of each 12x12 travertine. Then they decided to use a split brick pattern for the 12x12's - making the 2x4 slate the center line to work off. The dramatic effect this has on enlongating the space is beautiful. The visual interest added to this floor by using the colorful slate tile as the accent was the perfect compliment to the more subtle travertine tiles.
The addition of the oval bathtub in the corner was a great compliment to the arched entrance to the shower. By using the 12x12 slate that matches the 2x4 for the top of the tub deck and countertops a consistentant theme of materials makes this bathroom look like that of a spa resort you would pay big bucks to enjoy for the weekend.
The addition of the oval bathtub in the corner was a great compliment to the arched entrance to the shower. By using the 12x12 slate that matches the 2x4 for the top of the tub deck and countertops a consistentant theme of materials makes this bathroom look like that of a spa resort you would pay big bucks to enjoy for the weekend.
PRODUCTS USED:
Yurak 12x12 Travertine - only $5.66/sqft
Indian Autumn 2x4 slate - only $5.38/sqft
SOD6941 - The Blue Ribbon oval Bathtub - starting at $699.00 - Free Shipping!
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